You seem to be describing the map at https://www.openstreetmap.org - it is indeed as your say. But it is only one render of the Openstreetmap data - there is an infinity of others. Look at the following examples comparing different styles - and you can make your own... Openstreetmap is data that you can process and render in any way you desire !
http://mapstyle.petschge.de/
http://leaflet-extras.github.io/leaflet-providers/preview/
https://mc.bbbike.org/mc/